Newspaper story, The Boston Globe December 28, 2005
A talented young baker hopes to make a career in pastry arts
By Heidi Rose Lamirande, Globe Correspondent | December 28, 2005
SUNCOOK, N.H. -- For most 18-year-olds, the new year is a time to get ready to return to class and enjoy the independence of college life. But for Rebecca DeAngelis, school is not an option right now. The young baker, who is preparing for a career in pastry arts, has a lot of learning to do in the kitchen.
DeAngelis has been accepted to one of the most prestigious culinary programs in the country, but she can't afford to go. She doesn't seem angry or even very disappointed. DeAngelis hopes to hone her skills in a pastry shop that she now considers a second home. For the last three years, she's been working at Jacques Pastries, a small family business here. Owner Jacques Despres hired DeAngelis to do some of the easy tasks, like preparing baking pans, measuring ingredients for frostings and doughs, and cleaning the shop. Eventually she was given more responsibilities and was taught more intricate things, such as making leaves and flowers for cakes and helping decorate wedding cakes. Her abilities came naturally, and Despres saw possibilities in her talent. He began training her after her high school graduation, and she began developing passion. Just five months into her career, the young pastry chef is being recognized in New York and France.
''She has a gift," says Despres. ''She has talent plus and we've been pushing it. Not many people have that type of talent."
For DeAngelis, this all comes as a bit of a surprise. She took the job at the shop thinking it would give her spending money while she was at Pembroke Academy. She had thought about studying fashion or law. But she had also done well in culinary classes at a vocational program at Concord High School.
''I probably didn't come to the realization that I would be doing this until a couple of months ago," DeAngelis says. ''What made me go down the pastry road was that no one else could do it in my class. I was like, 'Oh wow! Maybe I am pretty good.' "
In November, Despres entered her into a major culinary and pastry competition in New York and she won. The Societe Culinaire Philanthropique's 137th Salon awarded DeAngelis a blue ribbon and the ''best centerpiece in pastry" card. Her confection was a large sugar swan with a detailed flower and butterfly against a solid chocolate backdrop. It took DeAngelis three months to prepare, which meant staying extra hours after work and coming into the shop on her days off.
Although it was her first time in a major competition, DeAngelis scored 59 out of 60 points, placing higher than pastry chefs who have been in the craft much longer.
''[Her design] was so clean and perfectly executed," says Francis Lorenzini, chairman of the Societe Culinaire and associate professor of hospitality management at New York City College of Technology. ''The details and the perfection of Rebecca's design got her the points. It was unbelievably clean."
The prize has given DeAngelis job offers at hotel kitchens, including Wentworth by the Sea in New Castle, N. H. and New York's Plaza Hotel, and it has opened doors for her to train overseas.
What DeAngelis would like to do now is attend the French Pastry School in Chicago, which accepted her recently. The pastry program is interested in people with DeAngelis's determination. After high school, Despres urged her to apply. But it would cost about $25,000 a year. Though there are some scholarships available, she can't put the money together right now. She's saving as much as she can, rarely splurging on clothes and social activities.
''I'm trying to balance my social life and work, and home is always a concern," says DeAngelis. ''It will [worry me] when I leave. It does hold me back a little bit."
DeAngelis says that her life at home isn't ideal. Her parents, who divorced about two years ago, still live together. When she isn't working, DeAngelis looks after two younger siblings. She pays rent to her parents as well. Going to school in Chicago would mean becoming totally independent from her family, which she thinks might be good for her.
''I try to avoid hanging out there," DeAngelis says. ''It adds to my stress factor. When it means that you have to be worried about your family when adults should be worried, it's extra. I can really work when I'm focused without many distractions."
At Jacques Pastries, Despres and his wife, Paula, keep an eye on her. They're teaching DeAngelis about other aspects of becoming a chef. Each week they test her on certain recipes or cooking chapters that Despres has given her to read. She is also learning about management and marketing from Despres and his team. The young pastrymaker spends her days making tortes, icing, doughs, chocolate, and sugar and gum paste.
With the help of Despres and his wife, DeAngelis is planning to attend professional classes along the East Coast, many held for three to five days. She's looking into the Notter School of Pastry Arts in Orlando, Fla., the French Culinary Institute in New York, the Institute of Culinary Education in New York, and New York City College of Technology. She has agreed to pay for half of her classes from her savings, while Despres and his wife take care of the rest.
At home in Suncook, when her mother is at work and she has a day off, DeAngelis spends time with her brother and sister.
''I'm very proud and I am glad she held back a bit," says DeAngelis's mother, Chantra. ''Most of her stress now is in finding a future and where she wants to commit herself. This is a turning point for her now. She wants so much to succeed, and that is a blessing in itself."
DeAngelis is also keeping in touch with the French Pastry School with the hope that she'll be able to attend at some point.
In fact, that may happen.
The school is so interested in her, says Renee Bohus, director of admissions, that ''I'm starting a new program because of her. I'm trying to get a mentor to take her and pay for a majority of her education. It's called the Apprenticeship Program, and I am trying to find someone to get her here."
With everyone pulling for her, DeAngelis is gaining confidence, and she's not easily discouraged. ''I don't know what's going to happen next," she says.
It may be that she'll pack her bags and head for the Windy City.